In the past when people have lost Cordylines to the very cold weather, I have advised them to cut them back to ground level and see what they do. You can learn more about pruning cordylines in my more detailed guide on how to prune cordylines here They also respond well to hard pruning in which you can prune them right back to ground level. They should then produce new shoots on the stem. If your Cordyline gets too large, you can cut them shorter by sawing through the main trunk, just make sure to cut above a side shoot or basal shoot. The flower spikes can be removed after they have finished flowering although I personally like to let them go to seed as it will provide food for birds during the colder months. This is a little debatable but in general, Cordylines do not need pruning, however, you can remove any brown leaves to tidy them up a little. Should you prune Cordylines after flowering? It is just something you need to be aware of. That being said, it isn’t usually an issue as the plant isn’t particularly attractive to them so they don’t often bother with them. Something to note though is that the blooms last all through the summer so it is incredibly important to keep your pets away during this time because they are toxic to cats and dogs. These flower clusters will attract pollinators like bees and butterflies as we have previously mentioned. The star-shaped cordyline blooms vary in colour, from purple to creamy whites and they appear in clusters. Plants need several hours of light at the right spectrum to facilitate the different growth stages. However, Cordylines that are grown indoors rarely bloom and this is because they do not receive as much sunlight. This is usually around June time, so you will often begin to see the flower spikes emerge from around May. This would help us to provide only the best-quality information.With ideal environmental conditions, Cordylines normally bloom in the middle of summer. If you’ve recognized any mistakes feel free to notify us about it. In south Canterbury and North Otago the bracts are green. The bracts which protect the developing flowers often have a distinct pink tinge before the flowers open. The flowers are crowded along the ultimate branches of the panicles. In spring and early summer, sweetly perfumed flowers are produced in large, dense panicles (flower spikes) 60 to 100 cm (24 to 39 in) long, bearing well-spaced to somewhat crowded, almost sessile to sessile flowers and axes. The upper and lower leaf surfaces are similar. The fine nerves are more or less equal and parallel. They are thick and have an indistinct midrib. The long narrow leaves are sword-shaped, erect, dark to light green, 40 to 100 cm (16 to 39 in) long and 3 to 7 cm (1 to 3 in) wide at the base, with numerous parallel veins.The leaves grow in crowded clusters at the ends of the branches, and may droop slightly at the tips and bend down from the bases when old. The pale to dark grey bark is corky, persistent and fissured, and feels spongy to the touch. Each branch may fork after producing a flowering stem. After the first flowering, it divides to form a much-branched crown with tufts of leaves at the tips of the branches. The right conditions can reduce the first flowering age to 3 years (Havelock North, 2015 mast year). The first flowers typically appear at 6 to 10 years old, in spring. Before it flowers, it has a slender unbranched stem. Cordyline australis grows up to 20 metres (66 feet) tall with a stout trunk 1.5 to 2 m (4 ft 11 in to 6 ft 7 in) in diameter.
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